Isedraten: the city the sands took back

South of the oasis, low mounds hide a city of carved stucco and courtyards. Archaeologists uncovered part of it a century ago — then the dunes returned.

Founded by Ibadi families fleeing Tahert after 909, Isedraten grew rich on the caravan routes. Its houses were decorated with geometric and vegetal stucco of remarkable finesse.

Excavations in the early twentieth century revealed rooms, a mosque and decorated panels, some of which are now in museums. Much of what was exposed has since been reburied by wind.

Elders in the ksar still speak of the place with respect. We walked the site with three of them and recorded what they remember being told.

“The sand is not our enemy — it has kept the city for us.”